We all finished before 10:20 somehow and Ellen was nowhere in sight. Later we learned she was on a phone call, on hold, and finally got a person (probably somewhere abroad) to help her. We got into her hybrid and drove to town, Aimee as the co-pilot, Cobi and I in the backseat, very spacious and comfortable.
Our first stop was the La Fonda Hotel, which is located somewhere between the Plaza and the Cathedral, to get a late breakfast. Luckily enough we found a parking spot rightaway, and noticed many stores who sold cowboy hats. We were sat at this round table in this very airy and colorful room without feeling like were were part of a caricature or New Mexican diorama (more on that later). The menu was familiar enough for the tourists that stay there but with enough local flair to make the same tourists feel like they are experiencing something new. I had an omelet with avocado, chorizo sausage, green chile and some kind of cheese typical in the area (for what I could tell). It came with a side of potatoes and I drank a decaf. The food was good, though I ended up asking for a side of salsa because mine needed some sort of dressing and the color red (the plate was orange-ish and with the omelet I had it looked quite monotone and low contrast).
We left, stopped at a few places for me to try hats on (I liked one but it was too stiff... I want a white straw hat with a straight brim and possibly a neck strap that looks like the one my grandfather wore, but only find stiff ones or ultra decorated ones, etc). No purchase thus far. We made it to the New Mexico Museum of Art, and fortunately they took our free passes (Aimee was going for 4 museums in an hour, and we wanted to see just one, so she had disappeared by then). They have this cute courtyard thing, and while most of the art was recent, the building was definitely historic, but not too glaringly so. The first area had a series of alcoves featuring "contemporary" artists in what I imagine to be a rotating situation. They called it "Alcove 12.2" and my favorite artist there was Steve Fitch, who photographed old drive-in movie screens and presented them as grids (much like the Becher's, but in color, and the landscape around it very arid, not European at all). Here is a link to his page's description at the museum site:
http://www.nmartmuseum.org/site/explore/current/alcove-12.0/alcove-12.2/steve-fitch.html
There was also an installation piece, which consisted of a car door with a projection on a window of a guy driving, with his background being computer-generated that was interesting, but I do not think it was part of the Alcove series, as his name is not in the site. I was going to photograph the info but the docent was one of those who did not stop talking and he proceeded to "explain" the piece as he saw it, which was a total turn off, specially since none of us had even said hi to him or asked for any help, he just sort of jumped from a dark corner and began talking (which was the opposite of all others we encountered, who looked extremely bored, most were texting). We went through an exhibition of New Mexican art, which included some O'Keeffe stuff (not as vaginal, but of interest was a photograph of her riding with a guy on a motorcycle and the motorcycle itself on display, listed as "mixed media" and from 1940 - funny enough it was not the only motorcycle there). Upstairs we encountered a photographic competition, which was actually somewhat interesting, followed by another room with some old masters of photography. By then Aimee showed up, having gone to the O'Keeffe museum in town and finding out her number two option was closed that day. We all ended up going downstairs and into a whole new wing (more contemporary in architecture) that featured 14,000 of art, and it ranged from bad painting, to santeros, to more O'Keeffes (one totally looked like a mountain range desguised as a camel toe, which was somewhat refreshing as a variation from all the vaginal pieces elsewhere, and specially the Judy Chicago work right next to it). Two things that come to mind is one large paper hand floating over a painting of two religious figures with Hindu appearance (but which I believe were Native pieces), that none of us were sure were supposed to go together, and a very large scale photographic reproduction of the first atomic bomb explosion in New Mexico, shot from five miles away and completely overwhelming in appearance. Aimee also took a great photo of Ellen, Cobi and I standing by the timeline of this exhibition, and I will include it here later on if she gives me permission.
By then my stomach started acting up, which sometimes happens when I eat stuff not prepared at home, or too spicy, or for no reason whatsoever, and I tried to meditate while we walked, talked, looked at stuff and laughed because I did not want to ruin the fun outing. More cowboy hat trying, Cobi and Ellen really wanted me to get a pink or aqua one (but they were the stiff kind, though only $20), but I resisted and said no. Amazingly enough we also avoided the Starbucks (the smell was hypnotic to me), and no gelato either. We walked across the Plaza, so lively and small town-ish, I hope to get back there eventually on my own as well, and made it to the New Mexico History Museum, located in the old Palace of Governors, which was totally diorama-drama, all small rooms with poor lighting and old crap that made the people back then look like pigmies (one chain armature was so small it was almost cute, almost doll-like, if one had a doll of an S&M gimp). Throughout there were cut outs of the floors and walls so one could see the foundations and adobe layers, which was interesting but lost their novelty after the third encounter. It was there that I got yelled (again) by an older docent giving a tour. I had been photographing throughout the space for quite a bit, and I was not the only one, when I came into a chapel where this woman was giving some long-winded explanation about something. I found a spot and stood by the railing (as the chapel itself was off limits), and raised my camera. I noticed that the woman stopped talking, and I imagined she was just lost in her narrative or finally bored with her own voice, made my aim and took a picture. She then said it really loud "sir, pictures are not allowed here, anywhere" (and fyi, there were absolutely NO signs anywhere), and I was so shocked by her passive aggressive behavior that I blurted out "Oh, I'm so sorry, but you should have said something before I took the picture, as there was plenty of time for that" and looked at her. I think her eyebrow actually fell off her face, some people smirked, and I just walked out. Ellen heard the whole thing and agreed with me she was annoying, to say the least. I should really have told the docent C U Next Tuesday (a week later), but I do not think she would've gotten the nuanced message.
Made into another room, tried to take pictures again and this time a younger docent told me nicely that it was not allowed, then went back to texting, and Ellen and I looked at all the crucified JC's there, with the New Mexican style of representation, with skinned off knees and gory bruising and flagellation, some with a tiny angel or mini-me holding a cup to collect the blood, usually positioned by a stick connecting the two figures, very Muppets-like. Those would have made great pictures.
Eventually we made it to a large but unappealing courtyard, because both Aimee and Ellen wanted to say hi to someone in the print shop, which was connected to the museum and had little displays of old press rooms and in the back an actual print shop where one could buy stuff. A man came out from behind a curtain and asked if we wanted to buy stuff, but none of us did (much like none of us wanting to give money to the ACLU when Daniel, a young but nice and a bit weird guy approached us when we went back to put money in the meter - as Cobi brilliantly put it, we could sign it but we could not pay it), and the guy they wanted to meet was out to lunch. So we left, walked around the building through the courtyard and made into this new wing where Aimee wanted us to see an exhibition of illuminated manuscripts. The setting was nice (we joked that our commons area should be more like the mezzanine lobby, with a large TV and many tables and couches, very airy and HUGE), and entered the exhibition. The work was actually pretty interesting, I specially liked the parallel photography exhibition, but really enjoyed some of the pages. But the installation itself was not good. the room was too dark and the circular motion created by the meditation room in the center (which had some nice golden moon paintings on the wall, but was mostly a WTF room), dictated that the whole space moved that way. So imagine a square room with a circle in the center, and then photos in the square walls (which I believe was painted black or a very dark color), and then the manuscripts/prints arranged parallel to the center circle, but with pieces on both sides so that the flow was awful. And most disappointing was the set of magnifying glasses at the left (and thus end) portion of the exhibition. All in all it was interesting, but the Illuminated pieces needed better lighting and consideration. We soon left, Aimee took more pictures of us, and made our way to the car, waving bye to Daniel as we left the Plaza.
By the time we were back I was pretty ill, found a package with some supplies that I ordered, made it to my room, and was there for a couple hours trying to feel human again. I imagine I lost five pounds during that time and surprisingly enough was not hungry until I actually ate some time after 6 pm. This down time had one nice side, which was a long chat with my dearest friend Merchant, who used to live in the area, and gave me the downlow on Santa Fe, a bit on SFAI, and what to do in town. He mentioned a spa called 10,000 Waves, and after visiting their site I want to do at least one day of pampering before I leave.
Worked a few hours in the studio, and between drawings (I always make one drawing and then take a break in order to look at it with fresh eyes), ran into Diane in the courtyard with some friends. She had this contraption that allowed one to see Venus passing across the sun, which to me was unexpectedly wonderful. She showed me the sun eclipse, also gorgeous and less frightening than my rapture dream, and I saw a different side of her - someone with a lot of energy, a lot of history and stories, and a lot on her mind - which was cool, seeing her out there doing something she is obviously passionate about.
Also had a great conversation with Mike, who is flying out here to drive back with me. Told him of possible routes, what to pack (if you are reading this, bring a bathing suit), and get really excited about going back home, which is making me want to experience everything this place have to offer sooner than later.
Later I finished phase one of the drawing/installation piece (yay! ahead of schedule), organized a shopping list, and went to get something to eat, which was a reduced dinner (english muffins with hummus and a cheese pizzette) because I ran out of salad stuff. Hung out a bit with Ellen and Marisa in the kitchen, then we went outside to the courtyard because John and Lisa were grilling (met Avery, Lisa's girlfriend, really pretty with a sweet smile) and remet Diane, one of Diane's friend from the Venus viewing. Aimee was there too, but after eating most of us left, because to me it felt a bit intrusive (plus I was not feeling 100% still), like it was their thing, and I should not eat their food (though I did have one aspargus, which was delish, though weirdly enough, it totally affected the smell of my pee (I thought one had to eat more than that, how funny)...
Went to my room to watch some Netflix, eventually ran into Cobi (and planned meeting time for gym), ran into John (who is planning to buy some houses here) and Aimee, who invited me to go to Ghost Ranch with her for a writing workshop, and so, because I think time here is going so fast already, and that opportunities may knock only once, I immediately said yes.
Now I really need to get that cowboy hat if we are going to hike around Ghost Ranch.
- posted via iPad
Location:Santa Fe, NM
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